For many years, Bali was a tourist resort mostly favoured by people who wanted to party hard, get their hair braided and stay in package-deal hotels.

But these days, Bali is taking on a more relaxed, laidback and grown-up style of tourism with the increasing popularity of hired villas. For the cost of a hotel room (sometimes even less), you can have your own house and the privacy to simply lounge around the pool if you want. Or you can take off to explore Bali’s beautiful beaches and villages.

Most villas have their own kitchen and private pool, plus they provide a maid who will clean and cook for you and a security guard on the gate.

So what better way for two old friends to reunite and have a girls’ holiday, leaving the kids at home? An old friend has lived in Asia for years and had been trying to coax me to her favourite place in the world, Bali, for a while.

Then, finally she hit on the exact words needed to get me over there. They were “massage”, “shopping”, and “food”. I was there as soon as possible, installed in Villa Aroha in Kerobokan, away form the hectic tourist zones, and she and I were able to spend a luxurious five days doing what girls do best, indulgence and chatting.

Massage in Bali is very cheap and the technique they use if firm but luxurious. They are famous for their “crème bath”, which I thought was a bath full of cream and had visions of some Cleopatra-type indulgence. But what I got was even better: A head, neck, shoulder and arm massage that never seems to end, during which something creamy and luscious is applied to your hair. Reflexology is a big part of any massage in Bali and there are also facials and full body massages – you name it, they’ll do it. And you’ll get out to the spa after an hour having paid about $20.

With three hours taken care of in the spa every day, I still had some time left for shopping. And let me just say this: One sundress for $3. I ended up buying 10. For these you have to head down to the touristy end of Kuta Beach. There you will find endless stalls where you can use your bargaining powers to get the best deals.

From there, I headed to Seminyak for slightly more upmarket clothes, with kurta tops and beautifully made cotton shorts that cost from$20 to $40. You’ll also find great hand-made sandals for as little as $20 – plus you can meet the guy who made them – as well as gorgeous silver jewellery and knock-off Raybans for as little as $5. But remember it pays to bargain with the sellers for their best price. And don’t be surprised if the vendor starts hitting their wares with the money you just paid them. It’s for good luck.

One place you mustn’t miss – even if it’s just to buy souvenirs for those at home – is Geneva, located at Jalan Raya Kerobokan Number 100. This is a massive warehouse where you will find everything from the unique Balinese ashtrays and coffee to handbags, handicrafts and housewares, dresses and shoes for as little as a couple of dollars each. It’s much cheaper than many of the tourist shops around town and prices are fixed so it’s no hassle for those who don’t like to bargain.

And when you are all massaged and shopped out, it’s time for food. Bali has some incredible restaurants offering all sorts of cuisine from French to fusion to traditional Indonesian (see fact file). And then it was over, too quickly. I was chilled-out and well-fed, but my lasing memory is of the people and the culture. Living in a villa rather than a bland hotel allowed me to really get a feel for the local neighbourhood and people. The Balinese are mostly Hindu and everywhere you go you see colourful offerings to the gods at the doors of their houses and shops.

They are very peaceful, relaxed people to spend time with. I’ll be gong back to my villa in paradise as soon as I can.